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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 
015 935 557 3 • 



Conservation Resources 






T5he PAN AMERICAN UNION 

JOHN BARRETT : : Director General 
FRANCISCO. J. YANES : Assistant Director 



ASUNCION 

PARAGUAY'S INTERESTING 
CAPITAL 



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Reprinted from the October, 1918, issue 
of the Bulletin of the Pan American Union 







WASHINGTON 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE 

1919 



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MAR 29 1919 



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ENDEAVORING to find a river route to the reputed rich lands 
of the Incas in Peru appears to have been one of the incentives 
. that spurred early Spanish explorers up the practically un- 
known waters of the Plata, the Parana, and the Paraguay — 
sectional names of the great stream which affords to-day, as in past 
ages, a fluvial artery to the very heart of South America. Sebastian 
Cabot, not content with answering "the call of the wild" in North 
America, plunged deeper into the unknown in South America, and 
with his little band of wanderers touched the borders of the country 
we know to-day as Paraguay about 1526-27, or several years before 
Pizarro reached Peru. Cabot is therefore credited with the honor of 
being the first European to see Paraguay, although it appears that he 
never ascended the river as far as the site of Asuncion. 

Subsequently JUan de Ayolas and Domingo Irala and their fellow 
explorers sailed up the Paraguay to a point where the eastern shore 
of the great river changes from lowlairds to rolling hills and verdure- 
covered cliffs; where nature provided then, as at present, a vast 
lagoon or bay extending eastward from the main stream. Here the 
explorers halted and began to plant the seeds of civilization; here 
they met the Guaranis, who, in their primitiveness, offered compara- 
tively little resistance, although it is related that the fiercer natives 
on the opposite side of the river proved to be more resentful. 

Whence came the original inhabitants, the Guaranis, to the land 
of Paraguay is a question that has not been definitely settled. Like 
many other primitive peoples, tradition plays a prominent role as to 
their origin. To many the oft-told story of Tupi and Guarani is 
familiar and fascinating; traditionally they were brothers somewhere 
in Brazil and they quarreled; Guarani finally led his people far to 
the southward through the wilderness to a country known at present 
as Paraguay. There they prospered and multiplied; and, if imagina- 
tive, we may draw a mental picture of the meeting of the descendants 
of these people and the imposing Spaniards on the slopes of Lambare 
near the still waters of the bay where picturesque Asuncion now 
stands. 

The " Province of Paraguay" during the era of early exploration 
embraced the vast area east of the Andes and south of Brazil; but in 

1 By William A. Reid, Pan American Union staff. 




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ASUNCION, PARAGUAY S INTERESTING CAPITAL. 7 

1617 by royal decree the region was divided into two provinces and 
the seat of government established at the newer town of Buenos Aires. 
Asuncion, somewhat like a far inland gateway to a still more remote 
and unknown region, was accessible by water and was frequently 
visited by daring explorers in quest of riches and adventure, and the 
place seems to have met the expectation of the wildest dreamers. 
History, romance, adventure, cruelty, oppression, and delight seem 
to have been liberally blended, so that many historians and scholars 
refer to Paraguay as the most romantic of all South American coun- 
tries. No land could hardly pass through more vicissitudes; but we 
must leave the story of the country, the wonderful work and the 
expulsion of the Jesuits, the wars and unrest, the gallant fight against 
the combined forces of three neighboring nations, and other phases 
of growth, to the readers of historical books. 

Passing rapidly onward, we note that the people of Paraguay 
declared their independence from Spain on August 14, 1811. The 
Spanish governor at that time, Velasco, being in sympathy with the 
movement, was chosen a member of the Junta or governing board. 
On October 1, 1813, a constitutional congress met in Asuncion, 
adopted a national flag, and vested the administrative power in two 
consuls. In 1844 the form of government was changed and a Presi- 
dent elected for a 10-year term, Carlos A. Lopez being the first official 
to occupy the Paraguayan presidential chair. He was succeeded 
after a second term by his son, who died in 1870. Shortly thereafter 
the Government was reorganized and a new constitution proclaimed, 
which provides for a republican form of government with legislative 
executive, and judicial departments. Asuncion being the political 
capital as well as the country's chief commercial city, has witnessed 
stirring times in the gradual molding of a stable government. 

Asuncion, lying about 1,000 miles from the mouth of the Plata, was 
founded in 1536; and the fact that this event occurred on August 15 — 
the day of the Assumption — gives rise to the city's designation. The 
construction of a crude fort, a result of the Ayolas-Irala expedition, 
formed a nucleus of settlement. Ayolas is said to have pushed onward 
up the Paraguay and never returned to civilization, while the place 
called Asuncion, with its few Spaniards and aborigines, became the 
pride of Irala and grew slowly, very slowly, through passing years. 

The present-day Asuncion excites a rather queer curiosity, an inde- 
scribable interest akin to "the tang of the Orient," on those of us 
who have tarried within its confines and who are not in quest of the 
more modern phases of municipal development. It especially appeals 
to persons who are versed in the region's early history and who know 
of the soul-stirring events that have marked the city's growth. 
Asuncion is built largely on the bay which extends eastward from 
the Paraguay, but confluence of bay and river are so near the city 




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10 

that we may stand on the hills back of the city and see the movement 
of steamers bound up or down the river. Asuncion's streets were 
laid out in rectangular form and in the larger division of the city run 
approximately from northwest to southeast, and are crossed at right 
angles by those from opposite directions. Many city blocks are 240 
feet square, while numerous streets are 45 or more feet wide, con- 
trasting with the usual narrow streets of the average Spanish-planned 
municipality. Leading thoroughfares bear such names as Libertad, 
Presidente Carnot, Benjamin Constant, Igualidad, General Diaz, Ber- 
mejo, Rio Apa, etc., while some of the cross streets are known as 
15 of August, 25 of November, Colombia, Independencia Nacional, 
Montevideo, United States, Oriente, etc., all of which are indicative 
of the patriotic tendencies of the people in perpetuating names of 
leaders of thought and action as well as notable dates in the country's 
history. Plazas Independencia, Uruguaya, and Patricios occupy 
prominent places in three different localities of the city, while Plazas 
de Armas and Constitucion, jointly covering a large area, are situated 
nearer the bay; still closer to the water's edge stands the famous 
palace built by the second Lopez; not far away is the new wharf and 
customs building. From this oldest section of Asuncion the streets 
and houses have gradually extended backward to slightly higher 
ground. In a section known as Barrio Cachinga the streets are laid 
out nearly with the directions of the cardinal points. Topography 
is responsible for a good natural drainage which Asuncion has always 
enjoyed despite the fact that the more modern systems of sewerage 
have not been generally adopted. Dashing rains also help to keep 
the city clean and generally healthful. 

Dwelling houses of Asuncion are largely one-story structures, but 
in recent years taller edifices have become more numerous. Ground, 
however, appears never to have been unduly expensive when homes 
were needed, so they are spread out rather than built upward. This 
style naturally lends itself to the ever-popular South American fea- 
tures of inner courts, fountains, and flowers. From the outside a 
home may appear extremely plain, but within its massive stone, 
brick, or adobe walls there is often a spaciousness in courtyards, 
corridors, living and sleeping rooms that surprise the stranger. 
Extremely high ceilings are the rule. In Asuncion there are also 
examples of beauty in plain construction; we see architecture of 
Spanish-Moorish type yet differing in detail from that observed in 
other South American capitals, with the possible exception of Bolivia's 
chief city, La Paz. The roofs of Asuncion also attract the stranger's 
attention; many are constructed of heavy red tile and follow such 
graceful lines that artists are wont to portray them on canvas. 

In public buildings Asuncion has numerous interesting structures, 
some of which bear the marks of age and traces of vicissitudes which 




L^^ 



EL BANCO AGRICOLA, OR THE AGRICULTURAL BANK, ASUNCION. 



This institution was established in 1887 and since that time its importance has been gradually extending 
by lending money to farmers and thereby aiding agricultural enterprise. 



ASUNCION, PAKAGUAy's INTERESTING CAPITAL. 13 

from time to time have enveloped the city and nation. Just as St. 
Louis, Denver, and Salt Lake City were scenes of stirring events in 
pioneer days in the United States, so has Asuncion witnessed the 
youthful period when life and property suffered. To-day, however, 
the buildings that have stood the test of time still reflect the taste of 
their architects and builders. 

One of the city's famous buildings dominates the water front and 
the lower part of the city. It was constructed during the reign of 
Francisco Lopez for his own palace, but accommodates to-day the 
various offices of the National Government. With a placid sheet of 
water bounding one side, broad and well-arranged lawn and flower 
beds on the other front, and the building itself rising high above 
surrounding structures, this sentinel stands reminiscent of the vaunt- 
ing ambition of a former ruler. From its tower or upper story one 
may see far across the Paraguay into the terra incognita region of 
the Gran Chaco. Still farther in the distance we catch glimpses of 
the winding Pilcomayo, flowing through a region practically unknown. 

If the visitor to Asuncion is interested'' in historical lore he will be 
delighted with theBiblioteca Nacional (National Library) and the Bib- 
lioteca Americana, wherein are preserved many rare volumes relating 
to the early discoveries, the Jesuits and the part they played in 
carrying civilizing influences to this interior land, etc. Some of the 
works date from about 1534 and chronicle events down to 1600, while 
hundreds of more modern books are also preserved. This famous 
collection, like the city, has passed through strenuous eras but yet 
retains many of its most-prized volumes. The books were carried 
away on horseback and in carts, it is said, to save them from destruc- 
tion by invading armies, and some volumes remained for years in 
the homes of ignorant natives far back in the forests. When tran- 
quillity finally came they were collected and are now valued among 
the most important works in existence on South American history. 

Other well-known buildings are the National College, that of the 
police department, the city's six bank buildings, Encarnation Church, 
postal and telegraph building, public hospital, House of Congress, the 
National Theater, Museum of Fine Arts, the new market, etc.; and 
very recently the Asuncion Chamber of Commerce has occupied a 
new and commodious structure, another ornament to the city. 

The Central Market in Asuncion is a place of special interest to most 
visitors because one there mingles with the more humble citizens; he 
sees the coming and the going of the itinerant female trader with her 
head closely wrapped in a mantle of black, who with fruits and goods 
sits complacently on the meandering burro; we see at the market 
the mingling of people of country, town, and capital city; we note 
the variety of foods offered for sale, such as oranges, eggs, cheese, 
cigars and cigarettes, and an array of vegetables entirely novel to 




THE MUNICIPAL BUILDING IN ASUNCION. 

This structure represents a type of the more modern architecture to be seen in various parts of the city, 
v The heavy doors immediately on the street and the numerous balconies of the upper stories are features 
4 more or less popular all over South America in both public and private buildings. 




TYPICAL VIEWS WITHIN THE CAPITAL. 

Upper: A scene photographed from the top of one of the buildings, showing sections of a military parade. 
Note the heavy tile roofs and the various slopes, all of which add a touch of picturesqueness to con- 
struction. Lower: A close view of the comparatively new Palace of Justice. 



16 ASutfcioN, Paraguay's interesting capital. 

those unfamiliar with subtropical production; there is the usual med- 
ley of voices in Guarani, Spanish, etc., while the general scene cover- 
ing largely a whole block indicates the preponderance of female over 
male population, a feature of Paraguay's history. This market place, 
however, fails to draw the ladies of the better classes, for in Asuncion, 
as in other Latin American lands, the wives and daughters of men of 
affairs are not to be seen in the marts of trade, at least at such public 
places as a market; the duty of purchasing foods for the family is 
delegated to servants. 

The water front of Asuncion is one of the busy parts of the city. 
It is the meeting point of the larger steamers that ply up and down 
the Paraguay and its tributaries with lighter draft vessels which 
operate from Asuncion northward to Concepcion, Corumba, and 
other far inland river ports. Traffic from Buenos Aires and the outer 
world bound for the far interior must be transhipped here, and this 
business furnishes employment for many workers, so the hum of 
voices in different languages is no less interesting to the stranger than 
are the various commodities handled. Recently a through line of 
small steamers initiated service between the ports of Suarez in 
Bolivia and Rosario in Argentina, and those traders of course pass 
by Asuncion and doubtless land and take away cargo. 

Large passenger steamers which ply between Buenos Aires and 
Asuncion draw alongside the customhouse piers and travelers enter 
the stately edifice after passing up broad stone steps and through 
massive arches. Passenger traffic was somewhat altered a few years 
ago when the railway from the south was completed into Asuncion; 
this route is now largely used by the public, especially on the northern 
journey, but when returning southward the steamers appear to be 
more attractive to the average traveler, as they afford opportunities 
for visiting numerous smaller ports all the way to Buenos Aires. 

Paraguay's trading relations with the nations of the world are 
represented normally by a value of more than $13,000,000; the 
export figures alone for the last normal year, 1913, amounted to 
nearly $8,000,000. Many commodities represented by these values 
pass in and out through the port of Asuncion, although the railway 
above mentioned draws freight as well as passengers away from the 
several river steamer services. On the whole, however, the business 
of the port is growing and for some years the Government authorities 
have been endeavoring to improve and enlarge facilities; ambitious 
plans were prepared to such an end, but the beginning of the great 
war, curtailing as it did the importation of materials and supplies, 
temporarily thwarted the work. Ere long we may confidently expect 
to see its consummation. While speaking of harbor facilities it is 
interesting to note that Paraguay recently modified custom duties 
on certain upbuilding commodities, like the motor car for business 





TWO POPULAR INSTITUTIONS OF ASUNCION. 



Upper: A sectional view of the National College, founded in 1S70. The bachelor's degree in science and 
letters is conferred here, after which graduates may enter the National University and pursue courses 
in law, medicine, or other technical subjects. Lower: The National Theater, which from time to time 
is visited by theatrical talent of European centers and from various cities of South America. Asuncion's 
population, like that of the average city, is fond of amusement, and this playhouse is especially popular. 










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ASUNCION", Paraguay's interesting capital. 19 

and pleasure, and now these may be imported free of duty. Various 
other changes were inaugurated in connection with importations, 
which will be especially noticeable in Asuncion. 

Public amusements are not so numerous as in larger cities, but 
Paraguay has a liberal number of legal holidays during which all 
classes enjoy relaxation from the usual prosaic routine. May 14 
and 15 are the days on which national independence is celebrated; 
the anniversary of the founding of the city of Asuncion on August 
15, 1536, is also a gala day in the capital, as is New Year's, Christmas, 
Columbus Day, and a half dozen or more other holidays. In recent 
years such sports as regattas, football, tennis, horse racing, etc., have 
become more or less popular. Clubs and societies numbering at 
least 20 are also features of life and amusement in which the younger 
members of society freely participate. The motion-picture theater 
has become as popular with the masses as in other places, and films 
from various lands are extensively used, those manufactured in 
Buenos Aires being the most easily available. In normal times the 
European film and that made in the United States are also shown 
to Asuncion audiences. 

The pleasant resort of San Bernardino situated on the shore of 
Lake Ypacarai has become a most popular rendezvous not only for 
well-to-do Paraguayans, but is also visited by many persons from 
Argentina, Uruguay, and other parts of South America. The lake 
is a beautiful sheet of water 15 miles long and 3 miles wide, lying a 
short distance east of Asuncion and on the main line of railroad 
between Encarnacion and Asuncion. The building of the road made 
the lake easily accessible from the capital, and the increasing num- 
ber of patrons is responsible for the erection of larger hotels and 
amusement features common to pleasure resorts. Prominent families 
of Asuncion maintain their homes on the lake during certain seasons 
of the year when the capital is not at its best; the railroad trip to 
the southern shore of the lake is made in about an hour and the 
visitor is transferred by small boat to San Bernardino on the oppo- 
site side of the lake. The resort itself nestles picturesquely amid 
tropical foliage, trees, and flowers. One may enjoy amusements, 
somewhat limited to be sure, or stroll out to the quietude of sur- 
rounding forests or participate in boating pleasures on Lake Ypa- 
carai; there are social functions from time to time at the hotels or 
at private cottages; while for those who seek complete rest and 
quietude San Bernardino opens wide its hospitable gates. 

Speaking of health and pleasure resorts brings us to the subject 
of climate. Paraguay, lying about two-thirds within the temperate 
zone and one-third in the tropics, enjoys subtropical weather; and 
hardly more than three months of the year — December, January, 
February — can be termed hot, although March and November are 




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22 Asuncion, Paraguay's interesting capital. 

sometimes about as warm as the midsummer months. The remain- 
ing portion of the year is cool or cold, and at times frosts occur and 
light wraps are needed by the people. In other words, summer 
lasts from October to March, and winter. from April to September. 
The mean temperature at Asuncion varies between 71° and 73° F. 
The maximum has reached 105° F., but there are many years when 
the heat does not register more than 98 Q F. Expressed still differ- 
ently, about 40 days are cold, 100 days hot, while the remaining 225 
days may be considered quite agreeable, many of them having 
a delightful temperature. The heaviest precipitation occurs about 
March and the least in August, but more or less rain may be expected 
each month of the year. The average year at Asuncion has 79 
rainy, 72 cloudy, and 214 clear days. Winds from the south bring 
cool breezes while those from the north are warm. 

All things being considered Paraguay, and especially its capital, 
is regarded as possessing a pleasant or even delightful climate; and 
this fact alone is largely responsible for the increasing number of 
people who visit the country in search of health, rest, and outdoor 
recreation. Horseback riding, popular with so many persons as a 
health-giving exercise, finds full freedom in Paraguay; indeed, the 
Paraguayan is truly "the man on horseback" and he is ever willing 
to act as guide and scout for the stranger, provided he is aware that 
the latter' s mission is not unworthy of confidence. 

Municipal government of Asuncion is based on the organic law of 
municipalities passed by the National Congress. This law stipulates 
that Asuncion shall have a junta or council consisting of six members 
and three alternates, and an intendente or mayor. Councilmen are 
elected by direct popular vote, as are national deputies and senators, 
and serve for a term of four years; and they may be reelected. The 
mayor is appointed by the President of the Republic and receives 
a salary from the municipal revenues. Alternate councilmen replace 
regular members in case of death, resignation, or disability of the 
latter. Sessions of the council are usually held once a week or 
of tener if occasion demands ; and questions are decided in accordance 
with the majority of votes. As in other municipalities, the council 
looks after the general welfare and progress of the capital, providing 
rules and regulations for raising municipal revenues, promoting or 
regulating public works, traffic, streets, markets, public health, sani- 
tation, charity, the police, etc. The selection of a president, a vice 
president, and other municipal officers and employees is made by the 
council and by the intendente. 

The policing of the city and the general appearance of these public 
guardians is highly interesting to the stranger within Asuncion's 
gates. Organized on a military basis and accustomed to regular 
drills, one sees squads of marching privates going to or from duty 



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THE COMMERCIAL BANK. 



Upper: El Banco Mercantile, or the Commercial Bank, one of the country's leading banking institutions. 
Founded in 1891 , it soon grew beyond its facilities and a new structure was erected, which is here shown. 
In midsummer the bank is closed several hours during the heat of the day; its busiest hours are the 
early forenoon and the late afternoon. Opposite the bank is one of the city's pleasant parks. Lower: 
Exterior of the Commercial Bank. 



ASUNCION, PARAGUAY'S INTERESTING CAPITAL. 25 

in about the same methodical manner that is observed at guard 
mount at military encampments. The individual is not so large in 
stature as the average policeman of London or Philadelphia, but is 
brave and capable of undergoing extreme hardship and fatigue as 
occasion arises; mounted or on foot he is both an ornament and a 
protector of which the city may be justly proud. 

Going to Asuncion or returning therefrom is not the tiresome 
journey that imposed itself upon the traveler in former days. Neither 
is it advisable to take the wandering route across Brazil as did de Vaca 
and his men long ago when they spent 130 days in reaching Asuncion. 
To-day the proper course is to leave Montevideo or Buenos Aires, 
preferably the latter, by river steamer or by railway train. One may 
board the train in either city and proceed northward, but in starting 
from the Argentine capital several connections are avoided and the 
traveler goes all the way to Asuncion without change of cars and in 
the shortest time, or in about 48 or 50 hours, the distance by rail 
being nearly 1,000 miles. Passing over fertile pampas and through 
the historic Misiones region of Argentina, with train ferry service 
over the Parana at Ibicuy and the Alto Parana at Posados, the ride 
across Paraguay is especially interesting if one is inclined to inquire 
mto stockraising and agricultural possibilities. The traveler's 
section of the through sleeper (section has 2 to 4 beds) is comfortable 
the dining car supplies nourishing and well-cooked foods, although 
naturally the various dishes are different from those of more fully 
developed countries. At Asuncion the train draws into a commo- 
dious station where alert coachmen await the traveler, and with 
baggage and self he is soon en route to the hotel, drawn by galloping 
steeds as is customary in so many South American cities. The 
ride is both novel and interesting. 

The traveler who reaches Asuncion by railway should by all means 
leave the city by river steamer if he wishes to embrace the oppor- 
tunity of seeing the great Paraguay river and its commerce. If 
one has time, say, several weeks, Asuncion provides a favorable 
starting point for various up-river towns and landings where con- 
ditions are still less modern but where foreign capital is developing 
large enterprises. Steamers are available at frequent intervals for 
this trip. Between Asuncion and Buenos Aires there is very good 
steamer service, and in going on the southward flowing current the 
trip is made in almost half the time required for ascending the river, 
or in about three days, the time depending on cargo and number of 
ports visited en route. Delay at the small ports, however, is often 
productive of much information if one has an inquiring mind and is 
not limited as to time. 

In conclusion, what is the future of Paraguay and its interesting 
capital? The country is endowed by nature with a productive soil, 





SCENES IN THE PARAGUAYAN CAPITAL. 



Upper: This view represents orange dealers and piles of the delicious fruit offered for sale at a mere pit- 
tance. Paraguay is a land of oranges and consequently the markets of the capital are always well 
supplied. Middle: Looking down Asuncion Avenue, along which stand many stately trees. Back 
from the street and somewhat secluded are pleasant homes surrounded by flowers and vines. Lower: 
One of the beautiful private residences of Asuncion. These houses stand back from the street and are 
placed in the midst of lawns and shade trees. 




PUBLIC BUILDINGS OF ASUNCION. 

Upper: Paraguayan National Library and Museum. Middle: The Encarnacion Church, which is the 
largest church in Asuncion. It is in use, but has not yet been completed. Lower: Asuncion police 
headquarters, facing a beautifu park. To the left is a large drill ground for the police. 



28 



Asuncion, Paraguay's interesting capital. 



with a climate healthful and often charming, with sufficient rainfall 
to grow the grasses for millions of stock, with numerous large and 
small rivers to bear the steamers of commerce and with innumerable 
smaller streams to provide water for the herds. Paraguay invites 
the capitalist to aid in a development that is surely if gradually 
coming. With a full realization of the importance of building up 
natural resources to keep pace with food and other demands of 
densely populated nations, officials at Asuncion are extending the 
hand of welcome. In response capitalists of the United States have 
recently invested millions of dollars (about $7,000,000) in Paraguay 
land and cattle industries; a sum, no doubt, that will be multiplied 
as these industries and others of a similar nature settle down to 
serious activity after the lethargy caused by the great war. 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



015 935 557 3 






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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



015 935 557 3 # 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




015 935 557 3 • 



